Sounds like it's only an "absolute train wreck" if your workflow depends on editing PDFs with annotation layers in software that uses PDFKit.
My interaction with PDFs starts with viewing a linked one in Safari and ends with "save as PDF to web receipts folder" and for that kind of usage there are absolutely no problems. I always thought that for anything half-advanced with PDFs (like filling out forms) you'd want to install Acrobat Reader anyway...
http://tidbits.com/article/16966
EDIT: 10.12.3 doesn’t seem to be much better, sadly:
http://tidbits.com/article/17010